Madeira in The Atlantic

From 20 million year-old forests to cliffs carved by the sea

Photographer

Dave O'Byrne

An Island Adventure in the Atlantic

Madeira, an enchanting Portuguese island nestled in the Atlantic Ocean, offers a perfect blend of stark and dramatic landscapes, fantastic riding roads, rich history, and vibrant culture, making it an ideal destination for motorcycle travellers. This 360-degree tour of Madeira starts and ends in its charming capital, Funchal, and takes you through lush forests, soaring mountains, rugged coastlines, 20 million year old forests and quaint mountain and coastal villages. With its winding roads and diverse terrain, Madeira promises an exhilarating and unforgettable riding experience.

Exploring Funchal

Begin your adventure in Funchal, the capital city of Madeira. Before hitting the road, take some time to explore the city’s historic sites. Visit the Sé Cathedral, a 15th-century architectural masterpiece, then over to Mercado dos Lavradores, a bustling market where you can sample local fruits and delicacies. Don’t miss the chance to take a cable car ride to Monte for stunning views over the city and a visit to the Monte Palace Tropical Garden. In the evening, enjoy a traditional Madeiran meal at a local restaurant, trying dishes like espetada (marinated beef skewers) and bolo do caco (a type of flatbread).

Funchal to Curral das Freiras

Leave Funchal and head north through the beautiful Laurisilva forest, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Your destination is Curral das Freiras, also known as the "Nun's Valley." This hidden village is nestled in a deep valley surrounded by steep mountains. The ride offers breathtaking views and thrilling twists and turns with new and spectacular landscapes unfurling around every corner. While you’re there, you should try the local chestnut dishes as the area is famous for its chestnut production.

Encumeada Pass and São Vicente

From Curral das Freiras, ride west to the Encumeada Pass. Situated at an altitude of 1,007 metres, the pass offers panoramic views of both the north and south coasts of Madeira. Continue your journey to São Vicente, a picturesque village on the northern coast. Visit the São Vicente Caves and Volcanism Centre to learn about the island’s volcanic origins, and enjoy the serene coastal scenery while you sample some fresh seafood at a local eatery.

Northern Coast: Rugged Beauty and Coastal Charm

Seixal and Porto Moniz

Ride along the dramatic northern coastline to Seixal, known for its natural swimming pools and black sand beaches. The route offers visually thrilling coastal roads with spectacular ocean views. Continue to Porto Moniz, famous for its volcanic rock pools. Here, you can take a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear waters and explore the local aquarium. If you’re feeling brave, try the local delicacy, lapas (limpets), often served grilled with garlic and lemon.

Paul da Serra and Calheta

Head inland to Paul da Serra, Madeira’s largest and most extensive plateau. The high-altitude ride provides a stark contrast to the lush coastal areas. The plateau’s unique landscape is perfect for a relaxing ride with some unique photo opportunities. Descend to the southern coast to Calheta, a town known for its sandy beaches and sugar cane production. You should visit the Engenho da Calheta, a traditional sugar cane mill, and taste the locally produced rum.

Southern Coast: Sun, Sea, and Culture

Ponta do Sol and Ribeira Brava

Ride east along the southern coast to Ponta do Sol, reputed to be the sunniest spot on the island. I can recommend a couple of nights at the hotel on the top of the hill, Estalagem da Ponta do Sol, where you can enjoy spectacular panoramas over the sea and the inland hills. Soak in the relaxed atmosphere and scenic beauty of this charming town before you continue to Ribeira Brava, a bustling town with a beautiful promenade and lively market. Visit the Ethnographic Museum of Madeira to gain insights into the island’s cultural heritage.

Cabo Girão and Câmara de Lobos

Continue your journey to Cabo Girão, one of Europe’s highest sea cliffs, towering 580 metres above sea level. The glass-floored skywalk offers a thrilling experience and breathtaking views of the coastline. Next, head to Câmara de Lobos, a traditional fishing village that inspired Winston Churchill’s paintings. Stroll through the colourful streets and enjoy a poncha, a traditional Madeiran drink made with aguardente (sugar cane rum), honey, and lemon.

Machico and Caniçal

Ride east to Machico, the second-largest city on the island and the site where Portuguese explorers first landed in 1419. Explore the historical sites and enjoy the sandy beach. Continue to Caniçal, a former whaling village that now hosts the Whale Museum, where you can learn about Madeira’s whaling history and marine life. The coastal roads here are particularly scenic and enjoyable for building a memorable motorcycle ride.

The Levadas: Madeira's Famous Walking Routes

Take a few days off the motorcycles also, and explore some of the walking routes that Madeira is famous for. Levadas of Madeira are a unique network of irrigation channels that traverse the island's lush landscapes, providing both a vital water supply and a captivating way to explore the natural beauty of this Atlantic marvel.

Originally constructed from the 16th century onwards to transport water from the wetter regions in the north and interior to the drier agricultural areas in the south, these channels have since become some of the most famous and picturesque walking routes in Europe. Stretching over 2,500 kilometres, the levadas offer a diverse range of trails that cater to all levels of hikers, from leisurely walks to challenging treks.

Walking along the levadas is an immersive experience that allows visitors to connect with Madeira's stunning scenery and rich biodiversity. The trails often wind through verdant forests, past cascading waterfalls, and alongside terraced fields, providing breathtaking views at every turn. Some of the most popular routes include the Levada do Caldeirão Verde, which leads hikers through the Laurisilva forest, a UNESCO World Heritage site, to a stunning waterfall, and the Levada das 25 Fontes, known for its numerous springs and lush vegetation. Along the way, hikers may encounter endemic species of flora and fauna, including the Madeira laurel and the rare Madeira firecrest.

The levadas not only highlight the island's natural wonders but also offer a glimpse into its agricultural heritage and the ingenious engineering that has sustained its communities for centuries.

Eastern Madeira: Mountains and Majesty

Pico do Arieiro and Santana

Ascend to Pico do Arieiro, Madeira’s third highest peak at 1,818 metres. The ride to the summit is an exhilarating experience, with winding roads and breathtaking vistas at every turn. Once at the top, you'll be rewarded with panoramic views of the island and, on clear days, even glimpses of the neighbouring island of Porto Santo. From Pico do Arieiro, you can take a short hike to Pico Ruivo, the highest point on the island, for even more spectacular views.

After soaking in the views, descend towards Santana, a charming town famous for its traditional thatched-roof houses known as “casas de colmo.” These colorful triangular houses are a cultural icon of Madeira. Visit the Madeira Theme Park to learn more about the island’s history, culture, and traditions. Enjoy a solid meal at a local restaurant, sampling regional specialties such as espada com banana (scabbard fish with banana) or cozido Madeirense (a traditional meat stew).

Porto da Cruz and Faial

Continue your journey along the northeastern coast to Porto da Cruz, a small village known for its wine production and picturesque setting. Visit the Engenhos do Norte, one of the last working steam-powered rum distilleries in Europe, where you can learn about the rum-making process and sample some of their products. Take a stroll along the oceanfront promenade and enjoy the rugged coastal landscapes.

From Porto da Cruz, ride to Faial, another charming village nestled between the mountains and the sea. The route offers stunning views of the lush valleys and dramatic cliffs. In Faial, visit the local church and enjoy a relaxing afternoon by the river. This area is also known for its levadas, the ancient irrigation channels that now serve as popular hiking trails. If time permits, take a short levada walk here to experience Madeira’s unique flora and fauna up close.

The road back to Funchal

Funchal via Ponta de São Lourenço

On your ride back to Funchal, take a scenic detour to Ponta de São Lourenço, the easternmost point of the island. This area is a protected nature reserve with a stark, arid landscape that contrasts sharply with the lush greenery found elsewhere on the island. The ride along the peninsula offers dramatic views of the Atlantic Ocean and the rugged coastline. Stop for a hike along the well-marked trails to fully appreciate the natural beauty of the area.

Return to Funchal in the late afternoon, where you can spend your final evening relaxing and reflecting on your incredible journey. Enjoy a farewell dinner at one of the city’s many excellent restaurants, perhaps treating yourself to yet another glass of Madeira wine or rum as you celebrate the completion of your multi-day motorcycle tour of this enchanting island.

Madeira’s diverse landscapes, rich history, and vibrant culture make it a dream destination for motorcycle enthusiasts. From the bustling streets of Funchal to the serene valleys of Curral das Freiras, from the rugged northern coastline to the sunny southern beaches, every part of the island offers something unique and unforgettable. This backroads tour not only showcases the island’s natural beauty but also provides a thrilling riding experience with its winding roads and spectacular views. Whether you’re an experienced rider or a casual traveller, Madeira promises an adventure that will leave you with lasting memories and a deep appreciation for this beautiful Atlantic island.