Dave O'Byrne
Crete, the largest of the Greek islands, is a paradise for motorcycle riders looking for a blend of spectacular landscapes, great riding, low traffic, deep-rooted history, and vibrant culture. This 360-degree tour starts and ends at the bustling ferry port of Heraklion, taking you through ancient ruins, breathtaking natural wonders, and charming villages. With its winding roads, diverse terrain, and rich heritage, Crete offers an unparalleled adventure for any rider.
We land at the Heraklion ferry port, a gateway to the island's vibrant capital and before you hit the backroads, you should take some time to explore this old town. Visit the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, home to the world's most significant collection of Minoan artefacts. From there, ride a short distance to the Palace of Knossos, the legendary centre of the Minoan civilization. This ancient palace, with its labyrinthine layout and stunning frescoes, offers a glimpse into the island's early history. The many layers will be revealed to you over the course of this ride, and you will be surprised where you uncover them.
From Heraklion, we head east along the northern coast to Agios Nikolaos, a charming town known for its picturesque lake and vibrant waterfront - a perfect spot for lunch and a look around. Continue to Elounda, a former fishing village turned luxury area. Here, we visit the nearby island of Spinalonga, a former leper colony with a fascinating history. The ride offers beautiful coastal views and a mix of modern and traditional Cretan life, and you should find yourself a nice taverna with accommodation and a good view, and relax for the evening in the warm Cretan air.
After a slow and filling breakfast, venture inland to the Lasithi Plateau, a fertile plain surrounded by the Dikti Mountains. Ride through traditional villages like Tzermiado, known for its windmills and orchards. Visit the Dikteon Cave, believed to be the birthplace of Zeus, and explore its impressive stalactites and stalagmites. The winding roads and mountainous terrain provide an exhilarating ride that you won’t forget in a hurry.
Head south to Ierapetra, the southernmost city in Europe. Known for its warm climate and beautiful beaches, Ierapetra offers a more relaxed pace. From there, continue east to Makrigialos, a small village with magnificent sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters where you can enjoy a relaxing and well-deserved swim followed by some fresh seafood at a local taverna.
Ride west along the southern coast, taking in the stunning views of the Libyan Sea. White you’re there, consider all of the people that die in those waters every day making the treacherous crossing from Africa to Europe. Visit Preveli Beach, where the Kourtaliotiko Gorge meets the sea, creating a unique landscape of palm trees and a freshwater river. The area is rich in history, with the nearby Preveli Monastery playing a significant role during the Cretan resistance in World War II.
Continue your journey to Chora Sfakion, a remote village known for its rugged beauty and strong local culture. From here, you can take a short boat ride to the picturesque village of Loutro, accessible only by sea or foot, where you can enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and traditional Cretan hospitality.
No tour of Crete is considered complete without experiencing the Samaria Gorge, and you can find the entrance at Xyloskalo, located in the White Mountains. The 16-kilometre hike through the gorge is one of Europe’s longest and most spectacular, ending at the coastal village of Agia Roumeli. Ensure you have sturdy walking shoes and plenty of water for this adventure, and an easier way to get back to the motorcycles afterwards.
Ride north to Chania, a city that beautifully blends Venetian, Turkish, and Greek influences. Explore the old town with its narrow alleys, historic buildings, and the famous Venetian harbour. Visit the Maritime Museum and enjoy a meal at a waterfront taverna, sampling local specialties like kalitsounia (cheese pies) and bougatsa (sweet pastry filled with cream). As you have parked the motorcycles for the night, you could explore the local wines in more depth, also.
Continue east to Rethymno, a city known for its well-preserved Renaissance architecture. Visit the Fortezza, a 16th-century fortress with panoramic views of the city and sea. Here, you can drift through the old town, past the Rimondi Fountain and the Neratze Mosque. Enjoy a leisurely evening sampling local wines and some of the other local dishes you haven’t tried yet.
Head south towards Matala, famous for its stunning Black Beach and ancient caves carved into the cliffs. These caves were once used as Roman tombs and later became a haven for hippies in the 1960s. The beach's unique black sand and crystal-clear waters are perfect for a therapeutic float or swim. Take some time to explore the caves and enjoy the laid-back vibe of this charming village. Don't miss the chance to try local dishes at a seaside taverna, such as fresh grilled fish and dakos, a traditional Cretan salad made with barley rusk, tomatoes, and feta cheese.
From Matala, ride to the ancient site of Phaistos, another significant Minoan palace. The ruins here offer stunning views over the Messara Plain and provide insight into the island's ancient history. From there, visit Gortyna, an important city in both Greek and Roman times. Here, you can walk among the ruins of temples, theatres, and read the famous Law Code of Gortyna, inscribed on a wall of the Odeon. This legal code is one of the oldest and most complete in Europe.
As your journey comes full circle, take the scenic route through the heart of Crete for your ride back to Heraklion. Along the way, stop in traditional villages like Archanes, known for its wine production and charming streets. While you’re here, you could visit a local winery to sample some of Crete’s renowned wines, such as Vidiano and Kotsifali. Enjoy a final feast of traditional Cretan dishes, including moussaka, and honey-drenched pastries.
World War II left an indelible mark on Crete, particularly during the pivotal Battle of Crete in May 1941. This battle was significant as it marked the first time that German paratroopers were used on a large scale and the first mainly airborne invasion in military history. The operation, codenamed "Operation Mercury," saw thousands of German paratroopers descending upon the island, aiming to secure key positions. The Cretan resistance, along with Allied forces, mounted a fierce and courageous defence, but despite their valiant efforts, the island eventually fell to the Germans after intense fighting that lasted for around 10 days.
The occupation of Crete by German forces was brutal and harsh. The island's strategic importance meant it was heavily fortified and the local population faced severe reprisals for resistance activities. One of the most notorious events was the massacre of civilians in the village of Kondomari, where German troops executed numerous villagers in retaliation for the Cretan resistance's actions. Despite the occupation, the spirit of resistance remained strong among the Cretans. Throughout the war, they continued to engage in guerrilla warfare against the occupiers, providing valuable intelligence and support to the Allied forces. The legacy of these events is still remembered and honoured on the island today, symbolising the resilience and bravery of the Cretan people during one of the most challenging periods in their history.
A motorcycle tour of Crete offers an unparalleled way to experience the island's diverse landscapes, rich history, and vibrant culture. From the ancient ruins of Knossos and Phaistos to the stunning natural beauty of the Samaria Gorge and Black Beach, every corner of Crete tells a story. Riding through remote villages and along coastal roads, you'll discover the warm hospitality of the Cretan people and the island's unique culinary delights, from fresh seafood and hearty stews to local wines and raki.
This 360-degree tour around Crete not only showcases the island’s historical and cultural heritage but also provides an adventure filled with breathtaking views, exhilarating rides, and unforgettable experiences. Whether you’re exploring ancient Minoan palaces, hiking through gorges, or savouring local delicacies, Crete offers a journey like no other, making it an extremely memorable destination for motorcycle enthusiasts and history experts alike.